Crash Course on Curing and Consistencies


Crash Course on Consistencies and Curing
 
“But my rosin doesn’t look like that..”
Sound familiar?
                When it comes to pressing rosin, sourcing TOP NOTCH material is of the UPMOST importance. But there could be a little more magic behind the scenes, that you may not know about.
Whether you’ve been pressing for years, or just starting your trip down Solventless Lane, you may have noticed by now that not all strains squash equal, with the major differences being the ratio of Terpenes to Cannabinoids in a particular strain. Typically, its fair to say cannabis strains with a higher terpene profile tend not to “budder” up as quickly or easily as some other strains, and in some instances wont budder up at all!
                The process of introducing oxygen, varying temps, and light to your rosin is known as the process of “Curing”
                Based on how you “agitate” and store your freshly pressed rosin, will determine the finished result. By experimenting with varying levels of heat and agitation, you will quickly get a grasp on how to create YOUR ideal texture.
 
Some Flower rosin freshly collected before its been whipped and cured – photo credit: @darthtolker
               
For some like “Darth”  (IG - @darthtolker) He provides a simple, at-home curing tech, that may be what your looking for. To start, he recommends paying close attention to genetics of the strain you choose, as we’ve stated before, not all strains will press the same.
 
 
He has also found, that when sourcing your flower, be mindful of how fresh the material is… Remember, the more heat and light your material has been exposed to, the darker the Trichome heads become, ultimately resulting in a *darker result.  One recommendation Darth gives is beginning your press at a lower temperature of about 195 F to help remove any unwanted moisture that may be left behind, remember, never press wet material.
                Once collected into a container of his choosing, he will then begin to “whip” it up, creating different “zig-zag” motions all while a steady stirring motion is in play. Once the Rosin takes on a desirable color, he suggests storing it in a refrigerator for about 1 hour with the lid open a bit, before fully tightening the cap for 24 hours. If after that time, the rosin has not “buddered” up, It could be one of those strains that just wont do so. Documenting and/logging what strains you work with could be of great value in beginning to learn which strains will budder up and which ones just flat out wont.
NOTE:
The amount of THC-a in a particular strain is mainly responsible for whether it will budder up at all
 
Some flower rosin AFTER whipping and curing – photo credit: @darthtolker
 
* SIDE NOTE *
 A darker color does not always mean  “bad” rosin, It simply could mean that the Trichomes have turned or matured to an amber color, resulting in amber/darker colored oil –
 
                For others, like Joe, from @Rhodyrosin. Simply curing your rosin to a gassy “budder” isn’t quite enough, Here he shares with us on how he achieves a desirable, highly sought after, Rosin Coin.           
 
He first classifies his rosin into 3 separate categories:
 
Fast Curing  – usually cures within an hour or two, making this type of rosin a challenge to shape and handle since it is likely to have the immediate texture of “budder” on the press while being squashed. This type requires a faster handling method to obtain different shapes such as coins, round dots, etc. This can be challenging as there is a narrow window to handle and shape FCR.
Medium Curing  – is where most strains fall. Unless the rosin gets excessively heated while being handled, this rosin is malleable and can be handled without any residual rosin sticking to gloves/parchment.   
Slow Curing – is typically derived from strains that are low in terpenes or have terpenes with a sappy consistency. Slower curing rosin makes it difficult to handle and maintain any shape. Cannabis flowers with a low terpene profile and most CBD strains fall into this category, as the cannabinoid to terpene ratio isn’t sufficient. CBD strains with a high ratio of terpenes to cannabinoids tends to be sappy while low-terpene rosin tends to be shatter-like.
                Once he determines how what kind of rosin he is working with, he then will collect his rosin into a circular shaped ball, and gently apply bottom heat, then watches as the ball takes on a more “coin like” shape as it sets and cures.
“It can be a fun, and crafty endeavor that can be therapeutic and similar to playdough and fun for adults” he shares.
Rosin Coin – Photo Credit - @rhodyrosin
Whip it…Whip it good! 
                These are just a few of the ways to cure that don’t require much more than a little elbow grease and a bit of know how. In our next section, we will explain another Technique of curing, popularly called “JAR TECH” that requires a bit more of a formula to achieve, with a Fellow Hash artist known by @north.best.connect_ , and he’ll further explain why he likes it that way. Be sure to check out his  IG page to get a glimpse of his style and technique.
 
                Without a doubt, whipping and pulling is the simplest way to cure your rosin into a nice budder, crumble or Coin.
                But if you care to dive in a little deeper, the use of some household kitchen appliances could open up a whole new world of texture.
              
  I had the opportunity to pick the brain of a long time hash artist named Raithon Clay, from @North.Best.Connect_, he has been perfecting the art of making bubble hash for over a decade.  Born in the 70’s, Raithon has had the opportunity to get very familiar with hash and the process of extracting it as well as the different techniques of curing Rosin.- which according to his expertise “enhances and brings out the terpenes and flower profiles” even more.
                He has most recently been working his magic on “Jar Tech” – This is when rosin is collected and cured in a glass jar with mild heat applied.
 
 Rosin being collected into a jar - Photo credit: IG @themapdestroyer
He was even nice enough to touch upon one of his recipes with us:
                During this process, the rosin is immediately collected into a jar, he likes to work with jars small enough to fit between the plates of his Sasquash V2 Rosin Press. Once he has his jars filled, he proceeds to turn the power to his press off, and place some parchment paper over the top of his jars. Once that step is complete, he then lowers the plates down, with just enough pressure to create a “lid”.
He shares “as the temperature of the plates naturally cooled, probably to a nice 165 F,  I noticed the rosin in the jars start to become the consistency I was looking for”. At a larger scale, he uses a commercial grade dehydrator with multi-heat Temperature settings.
“When using this, I will collect the rosin immediately into a jar, and with the lid on I will set the temperature between 145 F and 165 F. Then much like baking, Ill need to keep an eye on how it looks. It usually takes just under 45 minutes for the rosin in the jar to “muffin up” at which rate I will then drop the temperature down between 108 F and 98 F and leave in for anywhere from 6 – 15 hrs.”
Tip: Be sure to keep the lid tightened securely as this will assist in the needed pressure to build up in the jar, and not to be opened until the end of the process.
He continues:
“The pressure from the lid remaining closed throughout this curing process creates a unique terpene separation that leads to the final product being more relative of a sugar-like crumble. You can even open the lid right as it starts to “muffin up” and stir it up a bit, this will break down any solid formations, giving you more of a sugary “sauce”
*NOTE*
The Quality of material used does and always will determine the result)
 
 
 
 Rosin after being cured with some heat applied in a jar – Photo Credit: IG @themapdestroyer
               
By adding the step of stirring it up in the jar, before it has the opportunity to cake up, will break down the formations, and will allow the terpenes to find their way to the surface. The lack of oxygen keeps your rosin nice and “wet” and some would argue it even has a longer shelf life, since there is less oxidation in the curing process.
                Whether you whip it, pull it, or jar it up…There ULTIMATELY is no WRONG way to preserve your rosin. Finding what texture and consistency works for you can take some time, but by following this advice, you should become a master rosin handler in no time
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2 comments


  • Ralph

    Great info!

    A little input on what I’ve noticed in my past couple years of experimenting (all flower rosin):

    Obviously every strain presses/taste different. Some of the darker/sappier rosins I’ve pressed have had the best flavor when dabbed low temp; needless to say, this consistency can be a pain in the ass for retail packaging. When I first built my press I went to town and retail packaged about 500 grams of about 10 different strains. Every gram was wrapped in parchment paper, put in a small envelope, vac-sealed, then stored in my refrigerator. 18-24 months later, when opening the packages, all the flavor and potency are still there! All the “buddery” stuff is the same as the day it was packaged, and the sappier stuff has actually firmed up a bit to where it doesn’t run/drip like molasses but is a nice, soft easy to manage patty.


  • Steve

    Great article! Really dropping the knowledge, thank you!🙏


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